经历了试装、定装和后台奔波等紧张筹备，以及陶醉过了伦敦Soho和Shoreditch红灯绿酒的夜夜笙歌，著名的中国设计师周翔宇通过instagram为我们记录下了他出展伦敦男装周的种种生活细节。作为首次前往伦敦，这位常驻北京的现代简约美学才子在秀前一个月就住进了熠熠生辉的St. Martin Lane酒店，并在附近繁华的West End设立了临时的工作室。而在此之前周翔宇已在国内展出了11个广受赞誉的系列，还和周迅、范冰冰、陈坤、陈冠希、陈奕迅等国内一线明星做过无间合作。作为伦敦的第一个男装周上的重头戏，周翔宇名为“Fleurdelism”的系列从童军和百合花中找到了灵感。
Chris Liu is a fashion designer living and working in London. Following his MA in Fashion Design at the London College of Fashion, Liu worked as a design consultant for Burberry Prorsum before founding his eponymous label. Liu has been recognised as one of the top in a new generation of Chinese designers by Vogue China. Liu’s clothes are sold at Joseph in London, Maria Luisa, Paris and Harvey Nichols, Hong Kong
卸下了秀场上的浓妆艳抹，时尚宠儿雎晓雯在试装与走秀的繁忙奔波中面对著名荷兰摄影师Dana Lixenberg的镜头，在纽约酒店Lafayette House展露亲密一面。
Hong Kong and China-based retailer Lane Crawford selected Nick Knight to direct and capture their first ever moving image campaign. The resulting fashion film and imagery – starring Asian models Ming Xi, Xiao Wen Ju and Wang Xiao – features sumptuous looks from A/W 2012, including pieces by Yohji Yamamoto, Celine and Balenciaga, carefully curated by acclaimed stylist Edward Enninful.
It’s no secret that fashion’s most dynamic new markets can be found in Asia and the Middle East. This begs the question, if that is where couture is being purchased and craved, why should it not also be where it is made and shown?
To affirm SHOWstudio’s commitment to exploring new fashion frontiers, Marie Schuller headed to Singapore for French Couture Week 2012. Following in the footsteps of our ‘Asian Couture Week 2012′ project, this coverage unpicks the work of designers from areas like Bangkok, China, Hong Kong, Japan and France in fashion film, candid post-show interviews and essays by Sue Wen Quek and Bobby Luo.
Emerging faces Rui Wang, Liu Chang, Hao Yun Xiang and the firmly established Zhao Lei are profiled in Thomas Giddings’ elegant short filmed during the spring/summer 2013 menswear shows in Paris. Inspired by an enigmatic scene in Paul Schrader’s 1980 film American Gigolo, Giddings filmed discreetly in order to capture both the models’ true personalities and the minutiae of the everyday.
“I wanted to capture the downtime and follow each of the boys in a subtle way,” says the photographer, “telling the story through their characters, rather than through the clothes.”
Giddings began his career shooting behind the scenes at fashion shows forPOP and i-D, and has since gone on to photograph for British Vogue, Twin and Russian Interview, as well as hold numerous exhibitions of his work. Demonstrating the growing influence of China on the fashion industry, the four boys have risen over the past few seasons to work with some of today’s most influential designers, including Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel, Kris Van Assche for Dior and Dolce & Gabbana. Giddings’ Paris short features intimate access at high profile runway shows for Louis Vuitton, Dior, Dries Van Noten and Mugler, offering unique insight into the usual high-octane sheen.
“I work differently to a lot of other photographers backstage,” explains Giddings. “It’s about communicating existing moments rather than stepping in to direct.”
There is a lot of local Chinese Photographers, that appear in to pop out with their aesthetics. The reality of ones, that emerge with a new vision and approach to Fashion and Documentary, seems to moving the borders of a “perfect fashion photo-shooting” to the area of real art. The one that I met was Viko Wu, young Chinese-Canadian photographer that amazed me with a touch of raw reality in the street style photography. Please feel free to check the website: www.hairy-egg.com and her tumblr: www.hairy-egg.tumblr.com. With her co-operation with fashion designer Yutaka Onozawa (Silent Voice) they bring the new level to emerging Shanghai fashion scene. Here is the “Press Release Silent Voice Men SS2013″.
A recent article in Jing Daily about fixed wheel bicycle culture in Beijing, including fixie bike polo, has whet my appetite for and nudged me ever closer to ditching my 21 gear mountain bike in favor of a single speed, fixed-gear road bike. I’ll admit it: there’s something beautifully elegant and minimalistic about fixed-gear bikes. They are usually devoid of mechanical complication, with the most fanatical fixie purists eschewing even brakes (something that I cannot fathom in the sudden stop and go nature of Shanghai city riding). With no cables, gear levers, derailleurs, or shock absorbers to add weight, complexity, and clutter up the visual purity of the bike, you’re left with a beautifully clean geometric shape.
Chinese fashion designers and entrepreneurs are upcycling and recycling old clothes into new garments to help both the planet and their local communities.
It’s nearly impossible to go a week without reading about international fashion brands expanding their operations in China. But what about Chinese brands targeting the West?
A number of Chinese fashion and apparel brands are now aiming to build upon their domestic success and establish themselves in Western markets. Among them are companies like Bosideng, with recorded revenues of $1.3 billion in 2012 and over 10,000 retail outlets in China, and Eve Enterprise, the group behind four menswear collections now targeting the UK.
Very few Chinese designers experiment with prints…
Most Chinese designers still struggle with their fabric sourcing. Local suppliers traditionally shun small orders and refuse to supply them. And buying fabric at retail makes the designers’ products too costly. So quite a few designers turn to the overseas market for fabric. Uma Wang, for example, uses exclusively Italian-made fabric.
But with export orders dropping, Chinese manufacturers are now turning to local designers to fill the capacity in their factories.
Beijing-based Vega Zaishi Wang (王在实), one of Jing Daily’s favorite emerging Chinese designers, recently moved her VEGA ZAISHI WANG STUDIO+SHOP into an airy new space. Nestled in historic #63 Yanyue Hutong, the studio and showroom strikes a harmonious balance between Wang’s unwavering, simplified aesthetic and the more elaborate, traditional northern Chinese architecture. Having just debuted her Autumn/Winter 2012 collection, “Jaran Zagaan Aduu” (“六十白骏”), Wang will likely have her hands full in the months ahead, settling into her new digs while promoting the collection as fall fashion season heats up.
Via Jing Daily