D A F F
本届DAFF将会拓展为两天 – 25日周六下午2:00-12:00 & 26日周日下午2:00-9:00。
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Vera Wang, the queen of bridal wear, opens a two-story, 850 square meters store in Shanghai – her largest flagship store – to controversy.
Wang’s first China store charges a non-refundable fee of 3,000 yuan (US$482) to try on bridal gowns for 90 minutes. Furthermore, potential clients will have to make appointments “several weeks” in advance, according to The Global Times.
If the customer purchases a wedding gown, the fee will be deducted from the purchase; otherwise, the fee can be used toward other items in the store.
The company indicated that the “trying or fitting fee” is a way to protect its designs. Photo-taking or filming is also ban in the store.
This practice of charging a “trying fee” is not new as some Hong Kong bridal shops have similar practices. However, for a company who wants to do business in China, this policy will not endear the company to Chinese clients who are already sensitive to disparities they see between shopping experiences overseas and in China. The mandatory “trying fee” will likely be a hard sell.
The Xintiandi store displays 80 dresses with prices from 30,000 yuan (US$4815) to 300,000 yuan (US$48,174) and features three dressing rooms and one VIP room.
photo credit: vera wang
经历了试装、定装和后台奔波等紧张筹备，以及陶醉过了伦敦Soho和Shoreditch红灯绿酒的夜夜笙歌，著名的中国设计师周翔宇通过instagram为我们记录下了他出展伦敦男装周的种种生活细节。作为首次前往伦敦，这位常驻北京的现代简约美学才子在秀前一个月就住进了熠熠生辉的St. Martin Lane酒店，并在附近繁华的West End设立了临时的工作室。而在此之前周翔宇已在国内展出了11个广受赞誉的系列，还和周迅、范冰冰、陈坤、陈冠希、陈奕迅等国内一线明星做过无间合作。作为伦敦的第一个男装周上的重头戏，周翔宇名为“Fleurdelism”的系列从童军和百合花中找到了灵感。
Chris Liu is a fashion designer living and working in London. Following his MA in Fashion Design at the London College of Fashion, Liu worked as a design consultant for Burberry Prorsum before founding his eponymous label. Liu has been recognised as one of the top in a new generation of Chinese designers by Vogue China. Liu’s clothes are sold at Joseph in London, Maria Luisa, Paris and Harvey Nichols, Hong Kong
PICTURES SHOT WITH HASSELBLAD H4D / 40 www.hasselbladusa.com
卸下了秀场上的浓妆艳抹，时尚宠儿雎晓雯在试装与走秀的繁忙奔波中面对著名荷兰摄影师Dana Lixenberg的镜头，在纽约酒店Lafayette House展露亲密一面。
Hong Kong and China-based retailer Lane Crawford selected Nick Knight to direct and capture their first ever moving image campaign. The resulting fashion film and imagery – starring Asian models Ming Xi, Xiao Wen Ju and Wang Xiao – features sumptuous looks from A/W 2012, including pieces by Yohji Yamamoto, Celine and Balenciaga, carefully curated by acclaimed stylist Edward Enninful.
It’s no secret that fashion’s most dynamic new markets can be found in Asia and the Middle East. This begs the question, if that is where couture is being purchased and craved, why should it not also be where it is made and shown?
To affirm SHOWstudio’s commitment to exploring new fashion frontiers, Marie Schuller headed to Singapore for French Couture Week 2012. Following in the footsteps of our ‘Asian Couture Week 2012′ project, this coverage unpicks the work of designers from areas like Bangkok, China, Hong Kong, Japan and France in fashion film, candid post-show interviews and essays by Sue Wen Quek and Bobby Luo.
Emerging faces Rui Wang, Liu Chang, Hao Yun Xiang and the firmly established Zhao Lei are profiled in Thomas Giddings’ elegant short filmed during the spring/summer 2013 menswear shows in Paris. Inspired by an enigmatic scene in Paul Schrader’s 1980 film American Gigolo, Giddings filmed discreetly in order to capture both the models’ true personalities and the minutiae of the everyday.
“I wanted to capture the downtime and follow each of the boys in a subtle way,” says the photographer, “telling the story through their characters, rather than through the clothes.”
Giddings began his career shooting behind the scenes at fashion shows forPOP and i-D, and has since gone on to photograph for British Vogue, Twin and Russian Interview, as well as hold numerous exhibitions of his work. Demonstrating the growing influence of China on the fashion industry, the four boys have risen over the past few seasons to work with some of today’s most influential designers, including Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel, Kris Van Assche for Dior and Dolce & Gabbana. Giddings’ Paris short features intimate access at high profile runway shows for Louis Vuitton, Dior, Dries Van Noten and Mugler, offering unique insight into the usual high-octane sheen.
“I work differently to a lot of other photographers backstage,” explains Giddings. “It’s about communicating existing moments rather than stepping in to direct.”